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All of the T37 kit pieces laid out. The kit includes complete high power radio control gear. Everything you need to build and sail your T37 Racing Sloop is included except paint, varnish and batteries.

In the first step, the bottom, the two sides and the transom are taped together with masking tape.

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On the inside, after coating along the edges with clear resin, spread a smooth fillet of prethickened epoxe thickened further with phenolic powder. Here the prethickened resin is mixed with enough phenolic powder that there will be no sag at all. The thickened mixture spreads very smoothly, just like mayonnaise.

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Now the deck has been put in place with prethickened resin that is just slightly thickened with phenolic powder. The deck is taped in place with a few pieces of tape visible on the side. The boat is flipped over so the slightly thickened resin will slide down against the inside of the deck.

When the deck has set up, it is time to remove the tape. If a young biker stops by - why it is all the better!

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Prepare the thin mahogany edge veneer before attachig it to the deck. Here the veneer has been steamed in a saucepan boiling on the stove for ten minutes and then taped down to a smooth surface with the right curve. Weights will be added to hold the veneer flat. Drinking glasses or mugs set upside down work well as weights.

These zinc weights are more than necessary, but they work well. Just as often I use cups or glasses from the kitchen.

The edge veneer is being put in place with push pins and straight pins to hold it down to the deck while the resin under the veneer sets.

Needlenose pliers help in puting in the straight pins holding down the edge veneer. The straight pins are put in after the push pins, in the spaces between the push pins.

This is a very neat job with the pins!

Here is a nice detail of the bow and the mahogany edge veneer coming up to the bow plate with the pins holding the edge veneer in place. Remember to scrape off that extra epoxy before it gets hard! The starboard side looks neat, but the port side hasn't been cleaned off yet.

Here is a finished bow plate on a different boat. The edge veneer meets the bow plate nicely.

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A fine fairing job on the keel fin and ballast casting with the rudder in the background. This boat will be fast!

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The hole has been drilled for the carbon fiber rudder tube.

This picture shows the transom veneer being held on with pins while the resin that has been used to glue the veneer on is setting. At the same time the keel has been glued in. It is important to have the boat positioned so you can sight from the front and back to make sure the keel is straight, ie. perpendicular to the bottom of the hull, when you glue it in. In this picture the boat is sitting on two cardboard boxes that are the same height.

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Inside the hull where the keel comes up through the bottom, coat with clear resin and then spread a smooth filet around the top of the keel with resin thickened with colodial silica. The four keel support webs go in with fillets thickened with silica and then the servo deck is glued on top with thickened resin forming a very rigid beam-like structure.

Now the hull has been painted and varnished, and the deck fittings attached.

In this detail you can see one of the keel support webs and the servo deck inside the cockpit opening.

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Servos installed. The port servo controls the rudder. The starboard servo controls the sails.

This detail shows how the clew of the mainsail is fastened to the back end of the boom with a loop of brass wire.

And here is the jib showing the jib boom and the brass sheet clip on the jib boom.

At the front of the jib boom, screw in a closed brass screw-eye and slide this closed screw-eye onto the forestay tube.

Slide the mast into place and hook the open eye in the end of the forestay tube onto the screw-eye in the deck at the bow.

This is a pretty fine varnish job!

The main sheet and the jib sheet both come up through the deck through the brass grommet behid the cockpit opening. The sheet lines look thin, but that spectra fiber is super strong!

The main sheet goes right up to the sheet clip on the main boom and the jib sheet leads forwards through the eye on the starboard side of the deck just behind the cockpit opening.

Next the spectra jib sheet leads forwards and through the brass eye on the bottom of the starboard shroud.

And then through the brass screw-eye in the deck in front of the mast and up to the brass sheet clip on the jib boom. Squeeze the silver crimping sleeve as tight as you can get it - the spectra is slippery line!

Here you can see the run of the whole jib sheet from where it exits the deck to where it attaches to the sheet clip on the jib boom.

Fully rigged and ready to sail! Another absolutely beautiful boat. This picture shows hull number 142.

For pictures showing how to install the ratchet plate inside the HiTec transmitter click here: HiTec ratchet plate assembly pictures

For some excellent assembly pictures sent to us by Ted Naemura in Portland, Oregon, click here: Ted's T37 Assembly Pictures

For further T37 assembly pictures sent to us by Paul Jarvis of Winnipeg, Manitoba, click here: Paul's T37 Assembly Pictures

[T37 Pictures from the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival | Owners' Pictures Pages 1-7 | More Fun Pictures | T37 Radio Control | Desolation Sound | Excellent Sailing Performance | T Class Racing Sloop | T15 Racing Sloop | T12 Cruiser | Home | Order Form]